A Travellerspoint blog

Dec 2008

Happy Christmas!

sunny
View Round the World Baby! on Dodgey's travel map.

Well, we absolutely loved South Africa. As long as you can afford to live in a gated community it is awesome. Not sure I'd want to live out in the "wild" though. I've never seen so many electric fences and razor wire.

The last week has been much of the same - Braai's, swimming, and beers. A great way of life. And I'm totally missing biltong.

We also went to see a cricket match which was a fantastic day out. Sitting on the grass with beers and biltong. It's amazing when they hit a six. I was in line to catch one but as I went for it I was tackled by Michael-Lee and someone else (There is a 500 rand prize for catching a 6) so never quite made it.

After Michael explained the strategy of cricket to me I've started to really enjoy watching it, especially the "20 overs" mayhem games. We watched SA beat NZ the other day - scoring the 2nd ever highest test score. SA have the 1st too.

Back to the pool...

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( A regular day round the pool and Braai)

I even had my ears waxed in preparation for Xmas day...

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(Yes, it hurt and I shouted like a girl)

Christmas day was a hoot. Not your regular English one. We started the day with a trip to the "happy clappy" church, then hit the champagne properly, joined by lots of the Lester family and friends. As you can guess, we ended up round the pool and had... yep, a Braai :-)

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(The pool dragon was more popular with the grown-ups)

Christmas lunch was of course .....

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... fillet steak :-) (Oh how I love South Africa)

We had such a good blast. Michael and Niki looked after us so well, and the rest of the family made us really welcome. We'll most certainly be going back again. That is if they get over their memories of meeting me.... i.e. drunken Karate with Mike to mention just one encounter ;-)

We set off about 48 hours ago headed for Thailand again. What a journey!

It's a small miracle we got to our final destination with so many tight connections... 9 hour flight to Abu Dahbi, connecting within 1 hour to fly 6 hours to Bangkok, then 2 hours to get connecting flight to Koh Samui, then a ferry to Koh Tao. The 1st flight was delayed by 1 hour so we were amazed everything came together. We were also very lucky at Bangkok. The queues for immigration were huge, but as we stood in line, a group of about 10 people in front of us left the line, presumably to get their paperwork in order, so we got through in no time at all.

We are now ensconced in our luxury accomodation in Koh Tao.

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(Air con, sealed room - very up market for us in Thailand - and bloody expensive , but everything else is booked for New Year)

Looking forward to New Year on the beach, though the weather is overcast and forecast to be the same for the next week. Still, it's hot and humid.

Very excited to see Clare, my sister, too. She's coming over on the 1st.

Cio!

Posted by Dodgey 29.12.2008 2:26 AM Archived in South Africa Comments (0)

Biltong, Braiis and Beers

all seasons in one day
View Round the World Baby! on Dodgey's travel map.

Well, South Africa is proving fun!

Pretty much straight after our arrival we went out for dinner to meet the gang and get acquainted with South African dining.

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(Clockwise from left, Kirstin, Dalton, Keegan, Jani, Michael Lee, Nicki (Sis-inlaw), and Michael(dad of all the boys) )

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(And I’ve eaten half of that already…)

They certainly know how to eat! – and the Rand is very favourable against the Pound at the moment – I ordered 250g of large prawns for something like £5 – as a “side” ;- )

I went on the “Golf Day” I mentioned last time. Michael and I drove about 160k’s North to the country for a corporate “jolly”. When we arrived at 10.30 all the players already had two or three empty beer bottles by their sides. I was introduced to everyone, we got the briefing for the day – the game was to be an American Scramble (longest drive off each tee gets played – 4-ball teams), and off we set in our golf carts. Except we had 2 carts and there were 5 of us – so a lot of standing on the back took place.

Our host explained that the day was not so much about golf but more about drinking. Excellent! This was to be a most Africaans day out!

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There was one chap driving round in a blue cart loaded with ice and beers. On more than one occasion I had to chase after him, belting across fairways to reload, so to speak.

The golf was going well for most, bar one chap who managed to tee off and not even reach the ladies tee. Later he hit one that actually went behind him, and on another occasion he broke the shaft of his driver when he hit the ball with it, instead of the head. At first I contained myself to save his pride, but after the umpteenth cockup we were all in hysterics. The beers were flowing well too….

By the time we’d done the front 9 we had all easily cleared 10 or more beers each. African golf is fun – not just the beers, but the wild animals too – walking across the fairways, or monkeys hanging down to watch your shots from a few feet away.

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(Not unusual – well, it is. Normally they are on the fairway!)

We tucked into a meaty lunch – I was wolfing down as much as I could to soak up some of the beer. At one stage one of the guys offered me a beer, “no thanks, I’m trying to get a breather before round 2!”. He replied, in a very Africaans accent, “Roger, South Africa is not a country for pussies”. LOL.

So the afternoon continued. At this stage I’d loaded the back of the cart with an ice bucket full of beers. Well, I didn’t, a chap did. A chap who called me “master”. It was like stepping back in time into a movie.

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(Note the ice bucket in the back – sorted!)

The back 9 was basically a drunken brawl. I tried to drive the cart over a foot bridge and got wedged in – just a little too wide! The guys were taking a leak at every tee, the shots were getting worse for the really bad guy, and the laughter was growing. We had a ball :- )

After the golf we sank lots of “Jaegermeister Bombs”, Tequila, and god knows what else, and then headed off to a bar / club. I was totally wasted and Michael was trying to find out where we were staying with little luck. Getting close to despair at about 3am we found we actually had a motel room.

I woke up at 6am, on the floor. The truck was outside, with the windows open with the keys still in the ignition. Michael drove us back to Pretoria and I slept in the back.

Welcome to South Africa! :- )

The rest of this week has been mainly Braai’s & beers. We went to “Meat World” to get our , well, meat.

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(meat as far as the eye can see – yay! And the dark stuff hanging above is biltong – ready to be sliced)

Michael and Nicola are members of an evangelical church so we went with them this Sunday – very fascinating and a lot more fun than a regular English service to say the least. Not sure if we’ll go again, but it was a great experience.

Btw – we are staying in a gated golf estate and it is just like being in Desperate Housewives, except there is no one walking the streets, apart from the 1000’s of maids and gardeners. There is actually a dedicated bus service for the maids and gardeners.

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(Even the cats are trained to guard)

Update:

Many Braais and beers later – oh , and lots of Biltong – something I detested in England, but here you choose the rareness and size and then they cut it up in front of you. I’ve got a taste for medium rare. It goes down a treat with a cold beer.

We went up to a lake camping area yesterday – basically Braai, beers, Biltong (can you see a repetitive theme here?). They provide free canoes and Braai facilities. We had a super day in the sun. It all started innocently, but after many beers it got out of hand. Not one person managed to keep their canoe upright. Some capsizes were due to poor boatmanship but the majority were down to tipping each others’ boats over :- ) . K & I tried a “dry start” where you sit in the boat and get someone to push you off the edge into the water. We took on so much water we had to bail it out with her empty champagne cup.

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(Jani, Kirstin and Nicki)

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(Familiar feeling being in one of these.. again)

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(Michael, me. And K)

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(yep, more red meat! – awesome!)

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(… and the sparkling wine is going down well…..)

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(.. as did the beer, so we decided we could get 3 in a boat – which lasted a minute at best before we capsized – and yes, I’m in my pants)

Having a super time… Other randomness – I noticed a spider scuttling into a corner when I lifted the lid to the pool pump housing. I kept my distance. A few days later some round spikey white egg sacks appeared – like something from an alien movie, so I investigated on the web (yep, there is a joke in there).

It turns out that out guest spider is a Brown Widow – very close relation to the Black Widow. It’s venom is twice as potent but luckily it tends to inject half as much as it’s black cousin. Still not good though and can cause breathing difficulties amongst many other nasty symptoms.

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(You can clearly see one of the eggs, and if you look hard, the spider is tucked under the lip in the corner – I was too scared to get any closer)

It had to die! – One can of hair spray and a lighter later and the deed was done. Well, in truth, I bodged it, and she ran to the floor carrying an egg sack. We got her in the end but it’s safe to say that we (Kirstin, Nicki, and me) were all screaming and panicking as it ran about.

Yeuch!

But much nicer…

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(Relaxing at the local club house)

Oh – nearly forgot – the weather systems are amazing here. For the most part it’s very hot and sunny, but with little warning thunder storms can move in. On one occasion lightening hit the ground or a conductor about what seemed a couple of hundred feet away. The explosion when you are that close is unbelievable, and terrifying.

Speak soon!

Posted by Dodgey 15.12.2008 8:06 AM Archived in South Africa Comments (0)

Fun in Zimbabwe

sunny 38 °C
View Round the World Baby! on Dodgey's travel map.

So – We continue! – Heading to Gweta for our next night.

We were supposed to stay at “Planet Baobab” – a lodge that is surrounded by Baobab trees – but of course they messed it up again and it was fully booked. Fortunately I got a very quick picture of a Baobab tree!

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(Not the best example but still pretty cool. Some of them are extremely fat – they look like “toy” trees)

We ended up in quite a nice place actually, and I got the web for once, so I played a game of poker :- )

The following morning we set off for Kasane Chobe National Park – a great drive – tarmac at last! On the way we got lucky with the wildlife. One of our group spotted an elephant in the bushes, we stopped, and found 2 of them – right by the truck. And I mean right by the truck. As one walked towards me I have to say it was just a tad frightening.

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Lovely creatures – when they are not angry ; -)

That afternoon we took a boat safari in Chobe National park – a 3 hour affair where we at last got to see LOTS of hippos up close.

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We saw elephants and crocs too but I won’t bore you with yet more pictures.

Next day… and it is the last day of the tour – and to be honest, both of us were really looking forward to being back in our own chosen company – i.e. not in a tour group.

We took a short drive and a painless border crossing into Zimbabwe.

The first thing we noticed is lots of people walking everywhere, shops with bare shelves, and lots of people selling their wares.

Zimbabwe is in a real pickle at the moment as they are suffering hyper inflation – locals can queue for a day to use an ATM, and then the money they get out it so devalued it doesn’t buy a loaf of bread. The people there need everything. It’s very sad. Even more so that we were not briefed by our (Zimbabwean) guide – we would have bought loads of stuff with us like cheap clothes, pens, food etc from Botswana, but no. Nothing mentioned.

Kirstin traded 2 old t-shirts and a biro for a stone sculpture of a hippo, and I traded some old shorts and 100 Rand for two beautiful teak carvings of a man and a woman. Someone suggested that we ought to just give them money and clothes. I disagree. They need money and clothes, and they don’t need carvings and other curios. Trading lets them retain their pride, and it discourages begging, which we saw none of.

Our tour cook came back bare footed. She’s traded her flip-flops for a carving :- )

Curios purchased, we entered Victoria Falls park itself. We hit a good time of year. The water is just starting to build up, and that means the spray is minimal and you can actually see the falls. I’d like to see it in full song too, but this was great, and the spray was already ever-present (It reaches 150ft in height in the wet season).

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(The world's most dangerous jacuzzi)

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(We met lots of these)

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(And gave our left over lunch to the locals)

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A true treat to see.

Suitable awed, we checked into our 5 star Elephant Hills hotel.

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(Not a bad balcony view hey!?! – and there is a golf course among the trees too)

Internet cost $12 USD an hour and was hopelessly slow. I’m doing this update in SA.

Being that we were in the extreme sport centre of Africa, we got a briefing on all the activities available to us. We HAD planned to skydive – but as with most of the better activities, it was on the other side of the falls in Zambia and the visa for going over for a day is…..

Wait for it…

Wait for it…

$135 USD EACH!

Madness. It seems that as everyone has started going to Zambia instead of Zimbabwe (people are frightened to go to Zim), the Zambians got greedy and upped the visa price. If you want to go to the Zambian side of the falls it is currently cheaper to take a helicopter flight to get your pictures than to walk across the bridge.

Anyhow – being in Vic falls there was one thing we absolutely HAD to do. White water rafting the Zambeze! So we paid up and then had a quiet night in preparation. To say we were apprehensive is an understatement! The Zambeze is regarded as one of the best and most fierce white water rafting locations in the world. That, and one of our group did it the day before and told us it was a mix of fun and terror and that he’d spent 20 seconds underwater at one stage. He also had a large gash across the bridge of his nose……

When we arrived in the morning at the start location one of our group was very surprised that we’d chosen the Zambeze as our first place to try rafting. That helped the fear. Really.

The adventure started with a walk down ludicrously steep steps to the river – 860 meters down..

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(All the pictures are screen grabs from the DVD we bought so the quality is a bit crap)

We then had a safety briefing, which terrified us even more. Then we practiced pulling each other back in the raft, and then… we set off…

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(That's us on the left)

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To be honest, I think we missed the first half of the day as we spend most of our time clinging on for dear life with our eyes closed!. To say it is exhilarating is an understatement. You have to paddle or you’ll flip. You have to work as a team. You have to watch you don’t lance anyone with your paddle. And you have to listen for your guide’s instructions. All the while you are being confronted with 10 foot drops, 20 foot waves, you name it.

After our lunch stop we gained courage and also realised we were actually a good team. We had not flipped once, and we only “lost” two people over the side so far, including a small girl at the very front who got thrown through the air right over the boat.

It’s an odd experience – frequently you see 7 people in front of you, and then seconds later they are all above you…..

The afternoon was much more fun as we had gained confidence. We started looking where we were going, and into what. One of the rapids is called Big Mother. That was the one that threw me over the side. A wave in front of us about 20ft+ high, after a 10ft drop. Before I could blink I was out, and just as quickly I saw the boat and grabbed the rope.

On several sections we all jumped out and floated down the river and through the milder rapids (grade 1) which was awesome fun – we rafted down a mix of grade 2 to grade 5. There was a grade 6 which was deemed too dangerous and we walked round it.

Not once did we totally flip. The one other boat in front of us seemed to flip at every rapid so we felt rather chuffed with our performance.

A totally amazing day. Followed by a killer twist.

How do you get out of a gorge? Walk.

870 metres up – all steep steps carved into the mud. Some steps were rough ladder affairs made from logs – all very Indiana Jones. It was EXHAUSTING! (and we had to carry our helmets, jackets and paddles)

If a guy had not been there with water half way up I’m not sure I would have made it. I could hear my heart pounding.

Fortunately at the top a guide was waiting with chilled beers. We drunk hard and fast! A truly memorable day. I have cuts all over my knuckles. Blisters on my hands, and both of us have thighs that don’t work any more.

Last night we flew into Johannesburg where Nik & Mike (K’s sis and bro in law) picked us up and took us to their house in Pretoria.

I’m liking SA – we went to our first butchers where I have never seen such an array of dead animals in my life! – Braai heaven! And I’m enjoying Biltong and beer :- )

We got trashed. I’ve got an uber hangover, and I’m getting up at 5am tomorrow. I’m going with Mike to a golf course 100k’s away where I’m going to be the golf caddy driver for the day and then we’ll have a session at the clubhouse and stay overnight….

Oh one more thing – say an amazing sight last night – The moon with Venus and Jupiter each side..

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Speak soon!

Posted by Dodgey 02.12.2008 5:42 AM Archived in Zimbabwe Comments (2)

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